January 26, 2025 at 8:55 a.m.
Flight of Discovery - June 12, 2004: Across the Great Divide and Down the Columbia
This is the twelfth installment on the Flight of Discovery, an aerial scientific expedition that retraced the Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail from Indiana to the Pacific Ocean. It is summarized by Mike Harding, the Expedition Leader. A complete accounting of the 2004-2006 expeditions is recounted in his upcoming book, On Wings of an Eagle: Tragedy and Triumph of the Flight of Discovery.
“we [sic] Passed today nine rapids all of them great fishing places, at different places on the river saw Indian houses. The Country on either Side is an open plain leavel [sic] & fertile after ascending a Steep assent of about 200 feet not a tree of any kind to be Seen on the river.” ~~ William Clark describing the Snake River, October 11, 1805.
Mike’s Journal June 12, 2004
Well, after nearly two and a half weeks on the road, it was bound to happen. We were probably due for a dud day, but once again the crew pulled themselves together. In the end they were a source of unbelievable pride.
It started - as all days have in the last two weeks - with the flight almost two hours late in getting started. You can’t blame people for wanting to take showers and have breakfast.
The flight north from Salmon, Idaho into Ravalli County was just gorgeous. We winged up over Lost Trail Pass (where I did some work years ago on a road realignment with my buddy Dave Kopp) then west down the Lochsa River. This route is a fairly easy track to follow for us, but not so for the original Corps, who struggled mightily through the snow and along steep ridges for almost a month.
Easy to pick out the clear cuts versus the untouched wilderness areas. In white waterfalls cascading down from the forest, the Clearwater joined from the south. Mike and I took the Caravan out over Weippe Prairie in search of Blue Camas - the root that brought Lewis and his Corps back to life after their harrowing journey through the Bitterroots. No camas to be seen but we spotted lots of aircraft over Orofino and low over the reservoir where there appeared to be a fly-in.
Landed at Lewiston where we were met by Idaho State Representative and fellow pilot Don Pischner, who volunteered to shuttle us to a place for lunch. We originally planned to overnight in the Lewiston/Clarkston area, but our local Trunk contact had other obligations. Being a day behind, we decided to push on to Hood River, Oregon. After some confusion by at least one aircraft as to which way to fly to the Columbia (really, it happened!) Roger and Don chased it down and turned it around in the right direction. We all then managed to head west, joining the Columbia at Sacajawea State Park.
We flew west through the Palouse with a geologic commentary by Julian along the way. We flew high to avoid the small wildlife refuges along the route; banked low over Columbia Crest Winery where we had requested the opportunity to land and trade for wine (no response). This weekend was to be their annual Anachronistic Festival, but it appeared that no one was home today.
The ceiling was coming down and the winds were rising as we landed at Hood River, Oregon, having passed up the Dalles Airport based on a recommendation received last year from locals I met at The Dalles. Here we met the Airplane Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) Magazine Editor and her photographer that wanted to do a story on the Flight. In all honesty, we’d had better days for them to cover the expedition. However, we were all revived by a wonderful reception and gift exchange with Judy Bluehorse Skelton of the Nez Perce Indian Tribe and her students.
Meeting members of the Nez Perce Indian Tribe in Hood River, OR. June 12, 2004. Photo credit: Mike Harding.
Unfortunately, the Jet A fuel the FBO had promised for the choppers and Caravan was not available (it eventually turned up, don’t ask me how); there was no courtesy car; the rentals we had been promised were nowhere to be found; there was no place to stay in town and no place to alder plank our $150.00 worth of fresh caught salmon except near a junkyard, where we were offered camping. John and Jeanette Egan, who had arranged with friends to bring the salmon to Hood River were obviously disappointed, as was the entire FOD crew. John approached me in the wind.
“I’ve got some good news and some bad news,” he said.
“Give me the good news first, I could use some!”
“I’ve located the ground crew.” (He was referring to Gene and Wanda Elmore in the motorhome and Rob and Andrew McGann in the Ford Expedition with all our gear). “That’s the good news.”
“So, what’s the bad news?”
“They’re in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho.”
“Coeur d’ freakin’ lane!” I exclaimed. “What are they doing there?”
John just shrugged his shoulders and walked away.
So, with one aircraft blown down the taxiway, glowering clouds, a sprinkling of rain, and news that the ground crew had taken the Coeur d’Alene “short cut” from Salmon to Hood River, I held an impromptu pilot briefing while everyone fueled up, paid for the salmon we wouldn’t eat, and launched for Pearson Field in Vancouver, Washington.
The Gorge can be quite beautiful when the sun is out, but on this late afternoon it didn’t present itself very well. I feel badly that the crew didn’t see it at its best - Bonneville Dam, the Bridge of the Gods, Skamania Lodge, and Beacon Rock - all passed below in the light rain and mist.
We landed at Pearson without incident and taxied up to the parking area outside the Museum hangers. Boy, will they be surprised when they open shop in the morning.
Tonight, we’re staying at my favorite motel along the north bank of the Columbia – Homewood Suites – where the manager remembered me and gave us a great rate. We had dinner at Beaches with the crew and Pat Cooney-Nida, Ross Nida, and Roger Wendlick. We’re almost to the Pacific, and I’m starting to have problems remembering our last two stops. Brian admits the same phenomenon. That must be why he got into photography.
